This story is about first impressions, dispelling stereotypes, and a smidge about politics. That is to say, how one overseas traveler views Alabama and the US. Last month, Croatian writer and radio producer Tomica Šćavina traveled more than five thousand miles to settle into the Fairhope Center for the Writing Arts’ brief residency program. Šćavina arrived in Fairhope to polish her latest novel. She departed with a new perception of the south.
It takes almost 20 hours, and a couple of plane changes to get from Zagreb, Croatia to Fairhope, Alabama. For those needing a geography refresher, Croatia is a Balkan nation. It sits in Central Europe – on the coast of the Adriatic Sea- across from Italy. In any case, it’s a long way to go to work on a novel. But for Tomica Šćavina traveling to new places sparks creativity.
“I was just Googling all the residencies in the world and I found Fairhope. So I applied and I got it,” said Šćavina.
Šćavina is an award winning author. She also collaborates with Croatian National Radio on a series called Wandering in Sound. The program explores travel from the perception of a writer. While in Fairhope, she was writer in residence at the Wolff Cottage. It’s the signature project of the non-profit Fairhope Center for the Writing Arts. I sit on the non-profit’s board. But, I wasn’t part of the process to select Scavina for her visit. Previous residencies took Šćavina to programs in Boise, Idaho, Seaside, Florida, Greece, Finland, and Norway. But when she told friends she was headed to Alabama:
“They think there are fields, and there is some really man on his tractor or combine driving and he's chewing his tobacco and saying, hey, heidy, things like that -howdy,” said Šćavina with a laugh.
Šćavina quickly realized- sure, Alabama does have farming – but the state’s natural resources and sense of place are so much more.
“Well, the Bay is wonderful. I love this walking to walk on the bay and these, if I find fascinating these gigantic trees and specially, if they have the roots on the beach, on the beach,” said Šćavina.
And the writer discovered friendly people, sophisticated restaurants, local coffee shops, and of course, Alabama seafood.
"Yeah, I love shrimp and grits. And shrimp in any way which it's made totally differently. There is even some sausage when you make the shrimp,” she said.
Šćavina was here to focus on writing and culture. But visiting a month before the US election, she also got an education in heightened national politics - including dueling political signs popping up in Fairhope front yards.
“That’s a U.S. thing,” she concluded.
Croatia had its own contentious elections earlier this year. Šćavina and I spoke prior to US elections. At the time she said many Croatians didn’t have a full picture of Kamala Harris but worry a second Trump presidency would be harmful to Ukraine and Eastern Europe.
“We all hope in Croatia more or less that Trump will not win. So because it's a little bit scary if he wins,” Šćavina confided.
Politics aside, Šćavina says the writer’s residency instilled her with a true understanding of southern hospitality.
“The overall experience is experience of warmth of country and people,” she said.
As our country feels more and more divided, that’s a nice impression to take home to Croatia.
